Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). With a sweet, light and floral scent, Farnesol is a popular fragrancing ingredient to make your cosmetics that bit nicer to use. If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. Oh, and one more thing: glabridin seems to be also an antioxidant, which is just one more reason to be happy about licorice root extract on an ingredient list. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fattyacidmolecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. You can unsubscribe at anytime. - Diminishes fine lines and wrinkles for firmer skin tone As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it andsmoothes the hairlike no other thing. - Step 3: Gently press and pat into dcollet, neck, and face. An error has occurred. The topical application (meaning when you put it on your face) of 0.5% glabridin was shown to inhibit UVB caused pigmentation of guinea pigs. Anyhow, the point is this;there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. Its not something new to put it on our face: even Cleopatra used it to preserve her skin. Its the number one cause of contact allergy to cosmetics. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it inexcruciating detail. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. The generic term for nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. A 2015 research paper on thepotential of uses of algae in cosmetics summarizes that algae are rich sources of biologically active metabolites including antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, alginates, polysaccharides, and carotenoids. wa.src = 'https://d10lpsik1i8c69.cloudfront.net/w.js'; It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. Knowledge is power. It also helps to keep products stay nice longer by neutralizingthe metal ionsin the formula (they usually come from water). It's a nice general purpose emollient, has nourishing and moisturizing properties (as a high oleic oil it's ideal for dry skin types) and is quite easily absorbed into the skin. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. aveda chakra shift Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. So, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's "Miracle Broth" to a simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair. The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. It's claimed to be a bio-selectivesubstrate that protects and stimulates the beneficialmicrobial skin flora without doing the same withpathogens and undesirable flora. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores and it's a potent anti-inflammatory agent. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. - Boost skins natural collagen production So this one is the famous peptidethat's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". The latter one is a very-very expensive ingredient, so if you are after the depigmenting properties try to choose a product that boasts its high-quality licorice extract. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. alcohol. The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. Good old water, aka H2O. But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. All in all, licorice is considered to be one of the safest skin lightening agents with the fewest side effects. Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract thats known for its soothing and emollient properties. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin Cthreefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. Benefits: It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version ofSqualane is Squalene, youcan read about it here >>. - Step 1: After evening cleansing, warm a small amount of tulasra firming sleeping masque between the fingers Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. 1 magic property is that it has skin-lightening or to say it another way depigmenting properties. Wake up to glowing skin! Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix. if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. It is claimed tobring a silicone-feel to natural formulations and to givean ultra-soft texture and cushion touch. It is claimed tobring a silicone-feel to natural formulations and to givean ultra-soft texture and cushion touch. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. Nr. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. What research does confirm is that it contains amino acids and organic acids thats helpful for the skins acid mantle. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Its a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Turmeric is the yellow spice you probably know from curry and Indian food. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. 2 magic property is that licorice is a potent anti-inflammatory. It alsostimulates the antimicrobial peptide release by keratinocytes (skin cells). - Step 2: Smooth tulasra firming sleeping masque onto dcollet, neck, and face. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. All Rights Reserved. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. Hello, our favorite molecule that helps us wake up in the morning and then keeps us going through the day. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits. Brightens skin overnight, nourishes dry skin. Even though some of its effects are more hyped up than backed up, it is still a nice tohave on many ingredient lists. fbq('init', '162832554443888'); You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. The most common skincare ingredient of all. :). Also used for scar treatment. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. There is also an in-vitro (not done on real people but in the lab) study from 2009 that shows promising antioxidant and skin whiting properties about theSalicornia Herbacea Extract and concludes that "it would be a good candidate for skin rejuvenating agent". 15ml tulasara aveda 5oz Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid calledstearic acid. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP. No wonder its popular. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). The emollient plant oil coming from the kernel (the seed of the seed) of the deliciousapricot fruit. The most active part is called glabridin. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh. Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Seed Butter, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul'S Wort) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Molasses Extract\Saccharum Officinarum\Extrait De Mlasse, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract\Extrait D'Orge, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair, another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae, Read all the geeky details about Salicylic Acid here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It's one of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin, It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores, It's more effective for treating blackheads than acne, For acne combine it with antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically activeingredient. In a 2001 worldwide study with 178 people with known sensitization to fragrances citronellol tested positive in 5.6% of the cases. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. A common multi-tasker fatty acid. All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive -the cons probably outweigh the pros. An extract that comes from one or more of the 20 000 kinds of algae out there. Professionals please login to access pricing. Apricot Kernel Oil - a nice general purpose emollient plant oil with vitamin E and fatty acids (mostly oleic acid 54-74%, linoleic acid 12-35%). A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). The well-known stimulant from coffee. reduce wrinkles, smooth skin) but without the side effects (though it seems now that the INCI name of Lanablue was changed to Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract). !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) lemon, orange, lime or lemongrass. A little helper ingredient that is used to adjustthe pH of the product. This means,Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 does have some ability to smooth wrinkles (but not as well as Botox - sorry, if we sound like a broken record). Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one publishedin-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. It starts its life as a colorless liquid that can either be synthetically created or extracted from loads of plants like citronella, neroli, ylang-ylang, and tuberose.The reason we list it as icky is because Farnesol is one of the . This radiance-enhancing sleeping mask visibly transforms skin overnight and helps skin look smoother and feel firmer over time. Glabridin has also some soothing properties but the main active anti-inflammatory component is glycyrrhizin. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. Its used to treat several skin diseases that are connected to inflammation including atopic dermatitis, rosacea or eczema. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. So we will skip right to the part where we talk about what the hell it does in so-so many cosmetic products. window.__lo_site_id = 90800; Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. As with all fragrance ingredients, citronellol can also cause allergic contact dermatitis and should be avoided if you have perfume allergy. })(); A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. There is just one catch regarding glabridin and licorice: the amount of glabridin in commercial licorice extracts can vary a lot. It can also be a solvent and canfight against microbes and insects very well. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. It is a naturalwax derivative (from rice bran, candelilla, and jojoba waxes) that also has some moisturizing properties as it can retain 6 times its own weight in water, forming a water cus. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." The oil coming from the bran of rice. Not bad! The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. How To Use: In general algae extracts serve as moisturizing, emollient and thickening agents, and many of them also have additional anti-aging properties. A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. aveda concentrate spezialpflege Depending on your hair type, it can bea bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)}(window,document,'script', It is a naturalwax derivative (from rice bran, candelilla, and jojoba waxes) that also has some moisturizing properties as it can retain 6 times its own weight in water, forming a water cushion on the skin. You might know licorice as a sweet treat from your childhood, but it's actually a legume that grows around the Mediterranean Sea,the Middle East, central and southern Russia. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity, it shows some promise for acne-prone skin and a small study from 2013 showed that it might be able to regulate sebum production. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. It isexcellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, likeseborrhea or fungal acne. Formulated with high-quality ingredients, including Vitamin C, Turmeric and Licorice root extract and plant hydrators, this sleeping mask boosts the skins natural production of collagen and visibly brightens dull skin. Glasswort Extract - A plant extract that's claimed to be able to strengthen the skin barrier and provide deep moisturization effect. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Its a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and has a bittersweet taste. It might also have antioxidant and skin whiting properties. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). If you see a cosmetic product that claims that it has "Botox-like effect" then two things are almost certain: one, the product overpromises and two, it contains Argireline. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilizesome other ingredient. - 97% naturally-derived ingredients It's also a potent antioxidant and skin-brightening agentso it often shows up in anti-aging and/or radiance-boosting products. It's a popular duo. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; Use left/right arrows to navigate the slideshow or swipe left/right if using a mobile device. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. {if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function(){n.callMethod? A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. A skin protecting ingredient obtained by enzymatic synthesis from natural sugars (sucrose and maltose). A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Also helps to keep products stay nice longer by neutralizingthe metal ionsin the formula. With a sweet, light and floral scent, Farnesol is a popular fragrancing ingredient to make your cosmetics that bit nicer to use. It makes your skin feel nice and smooth (emollient), gives body to cream type products and helps to stabilize water and oilmixes (aka emulsions). n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments)}; Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-calledrheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. Its a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. If you are more of a "let's treat this aging thing properly" type, then it's probably not your thing. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. - Rich night cream brightens skin and infuses it with moisture Bottom line: Licorice is a great skincare ingredient with significant depigmenting, anti-inflammatory and even some antioxidant properties. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilizeother ingredients. Similar to many other emollient plant oils, it contains several skin-goodies: nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids (oleic acid: 40%, linoleic acid: 30%, linolenic acid:1-2%), antioxidant vitamin E, emollient sterols and potent antioxidant gamma-oryzanol. Its in our products to make it smell nice. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). 4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo, Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Intensive Treatment. A plant extract coming from glasswort, a type of succulentthat grows in the salt marshes along the coastline of South Korea. It can also be a solvent and canfight against microbes and insects very well. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Currently, algae extracts are mostly used asmoisturizing andthickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well asworking as an antimicrobial. But it's not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes the skin,protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). Thanks. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. One of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin. It's the chemically chopped up version of normal lecithin. Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. aveda tulasara krmek krmmnia It smells like rose and can be found in rose oil or in small quantities in geranium, lemon and many other essential oils. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often usedand often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. aveda tulasara firming infusion 30ml illuminate worldwide ozcosmetics It also gives a "pleasing product aesthetics", so no wonder it's popular. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. Apply it after your Tulasara concentrate of choice as the last step before bed. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment,and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. Be happy if it's on the ingredient list. A commonly used water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). Skin feels firmer over time. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. Looking at the research, we were surprised to find how versatile Caffeine is. Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume on the label) because of allergen potential. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract thats known for its soothing and emollient properties.