crank from the spindle. Make sure you get the removal process right. thanks for this, this has been the source of much irritation on my rides and for my wallet when i eventually get round to paying the LBS to replace it. You will be much more likely to cross-thread the bottom bracket as you introduce it to those initial threads since there will be resistance from those damaged threads. . Set a hair dryer on a couple inches away and run it until both surfaces are hot to the touch then try again. A local bike shop should be able to get your bottom bracket faced if it needs it. So far i've tried it on the cartridge, a cup + cone BB and a stuck seatpost with no luck. On new Shimano cartridge BBs, the So far i've put the frame up for sale with a prize for the person who removed it. . This is useful for protecting your hands in case they slip. Use degreaser if you have some handy. Check the photo below. Inspect the threaded cups for tool fittings. turn the bottom bracket to the leftit should turn smoothly into the BB shell all the way until the bottom bracket and the BB shell face are touching. Fully secure cup to manufacturers torque specifications. With the bottom bracket removed, it is very important to thoroughly clean the bottom bracket area. For example, You may well need more than a lick of leverage to break the bottom bracket free of the BB shell. If you are installing a new bottom bracket then make sure youve chosen the correct one for your bike. side, so take it out of your workstand for this part. Turn it clockwise! There are many different designs and tool options. I like the idea of getting an attachment "cheater bar" to increase the leverage of a wrench and i'll seriously consider that. By this stage i was frustrated and put all body weight on the wrench on the clockwise direction. This may be square tapered bolts, a toothed ring (splined adjusted. Ill start with First Components NC99 because it is unique in the marketa (patented) press fit square taper bottom bracket. Again, if you have a long-handled torque wrench youll achieve a torque setting within tolerance with ease. I effectively found this when removing the left side just stripped, but the right came off fine, then I could take off the left. Its a matter of getting used to the specifics of whichever tool you opt for. . Thread right side counterclockwise into the shell. Snug Ideally Super Cheap Auto NZ would stock it or at least Bunnings NZ, EDIT: What about Permatex Fast Break $14 for 12oz. 8. EDIT2: All i could find was a product called Penetr8 Hi Speed Penetrant by CRC. Give the shell a brush then a wipe with a shop cloth or rag. Use a suitable BB removal tool to firmly tighten the drive side first anti-clockwise. Check the chainring bolts are greased and tight. It will also generally be more efficient and less noisy. I cannot remove this thing, even the local bike repair man could not remove it. Tighten this using your fingers until theres only around 1cm of thread left showing. Applying grease to the bottom bracket shell along with the bottom bracket cup threads is extremely important. When it is fully dried, grease the threads using high-quality grease. The solution there is to run a tap a half cm or so into it. Leave it slightly loose. Put plenty of grease on the threads of the bottom bracket. /Rttm%fH~ 0Dw).TQPfK7_jN"jqp- \0%am=Un0}#4kaF iP"O': :ks+$L.aZrI$U (H %3WDbX,w"mqd[7qez4.0%c{16n4j,z Ill shortly give you a, The King Cycle group, Truvativ, and Race Face joined forces to create the alternative, open, Although we are primarily focused on square taper bottom brackets here, I mention ISIS since, For a more intimate look at the process, you might like to, The first is an ISIS bottom bracket tool. Install any spacers as required on the right-side cup. aj_zone = 'hyperx'; aj_adspot = '431174'; aj_page = '0'; aj_dim ='429245'; aj_ch = '429673'; aj_ct = ''; aj_kw = ''; A few swings in the counter clockwise direction just in case. The non drive side is a plastic sleeve that helps hold the BB tightly in place. The crank is pushed onto the wedge once the bolts that fit into either end of the spindle apply enough pressure as you crank them to the appropriate torque. put and lock the bb in a clamp, turn the bike. Also, take the seat post out and spray as much PB Blaster down the seat tube as you can. You have to make certain the tool is perfectly fitted to the lockring, otherwise it may slip. You will need some specialized tools for carrying out this procedure. yes, I have seen bottom brackets that were not greased rattling around in shells that have been stripped of thread! "Now we're talking" i thought. aj)TcOH}J1dW:?`B&I>Ru@u It is important to not slip as you may damage the threads. 2. tap the bottom bracket tool gently with a hammer as you apply force. The crank sits snugly on the splines without the need to jam the crank onto the spindle as with a square taper design. Everything i believe was over torqued and ungreased and to top it off, rust had bound certain areas together. That's OK. Inside, bearings surround a rotating spindle -- this lets the bottom bracket. When you feel the BB seat into the thread, reverse direction ie. Apply a Easy turning will help in spades should the threads really need cutting, which they will if they are damaged. Although we are primarily focused on square taper bottom brackets here, I mention ISIS since youll need a splined ISIS bottom bracket tool to remove and install the modern square taper cartridge bottom bracket. Servicing the bearings: Clean and inspect all parts. If there is no damage that means the installation requires more leverage than normally would be the case. . I've tried prying the seat lug while trying to pull it out with no luck. I'm not familiar with the Ice BB tool, but most have a hole that allows you to thread a bolt through to the spindle and keep the tool from slipping. teeth on the inside of the bracket cartridge, while the outer half is lockring from the left side. Well look it to adding instructions for cup and cone BBs too Wayne. With both the cranks removed, it is time to remove the bottom bracket. Have you tried the usual places? Begin by removing the lockring. Or should be . receiver). Start by securely placing the bottom bracket remover onto the left side of the bottom bracket. longer lever. Learn how your comment data is processed. lockring is on the left-hand side, opposite the chain. bottom bracket), or even a threaded bolt. Also, check the outer face of the bottom bracket is correctly faced. Loads of WD40 applied You must remove both the left crank and the right crank arm away from, then back towards the bike to detect wobble. Apply cutting oil to assist in preserving the tools cutting edges. . this kid's bike has a spindle that terminates in a bolt. A really, really, really . This will allow you to feel whether its going in crooked. get the BB shell as clean as you can. In the event, reverse the procedure, remove the BB and carefully inspect the threads. Check the cranks are tight by trying to wiggle them side to side while holding the frame. This model is a bit more stable when engaged with the BBs splines. yes, I have seen bottom brackets that were not greased rattling around in, A pair of nitrile gloves for handling the grease is a good idea, especially if you are keen on keeping greasy finger marks off the frame when doing subsequent work. . t4eP#V q@vV_]4d;\+dYiGjI'`"CL:uM9% SNvq'/`K\8*tOeiN 5yXq&aG|tbuy'#'9-;aAvEX/"+FU0Neh-/F&.~'xr~Y7"W8*hJkG7J?YIbY!q}HR\{%5anVf;9_/W!K'>NgExvLx3#`l0#g'sSA%]T4t} This side tightens anti-clockwise. Insert the If you head to the hardware store you should be able to find that in various lengths. This creates a durable barrier in the threaded joint and prevents corrosion. what tools are required from start to finish? Note that as with any of these repairs, a longer tool (often more expensive) will make a huge difference. If you hear creaking as you pedal, then it may well be because theres dirt or water trapped in the bottom bracket. Install and tighten the left-side cup, turning it clockwise to install. The first is an ISIS bottom bracket tool. the opposite side's lockring may come loose as you turn the bottom bracket. But, again, best never to mix standards if you can at all avoid it. If the BB shell threads have been slightly flattened right at the BB face, the new BB may be very hard, nee, impossible to install. If the BB is an old one, been in there for a long time, then that initial movement will be hard to get even if you have liberally applied penetrating fluids over an extended time period. . Adjusting the bearing tightness: First remove the left This tool fits into the . Make sure you replace your bottom bracket with a like-for-like. . I believe a large part of the problem was that the threads has so much grit in them. The bottom bracket is often the source of many irritating creaks on your bike. I felt it move a bit. A square taper bottom bracket in the form of a cartridge is a reliable bottom bracket for your bike, easy to maintain and replace. (Photo shows a left-sided bottom bracket. The bottom bracket type must match the If you wanted the pedals Cost. If the square taper bottom bracket in question has a nylon lockring, it will likely not be very firmly seated in the BB shell. Dont start with the drive side. If you don't see gear-like teeth around the inside of you may have to turn the torque right up past 100 Nm if you are faced with a grimly stubborn BB. To replace or service the bottom bracket, you need If you dont have a torque wrench or a long-handled wrench, youll still have to find some way to apply leverage. I don't mind if the BB cartridge is destroyed. They can last many years not least because they are sealed from the elements, ie.they contain a sealed bearing. Note: A very special thank you to Lunar Cycles, which is a bike shop in Camden whove helped me bring these repairs to London Cyclist and to the Bike Doctor app. If you have not tapped the threads, or dont intend to, then thoroughly wipe down the BB shell threads. I've just aquired an old 90's Merida "Albontech 890" mountain bike. . Adjustable cup-and-cone threaded bottom brackets are reviewed in Bottom Bracket Service: Adjustable Cup-and-Cone. Check your bottom bracket by spinning the axle and seeing if it freely spins. Italian threaded cups will have marking stating 36x24.. The taper is at an angle of 2 to the spindles centerline. Required fields are marked *. I have modern bikes with both configurations: bracket left with The lockring will probably not be as tight as the drive-side which, because it is the drive-side, tends to be tighter. together, and secures them within the bottom of the bike frame.The bottom bracket has threads around the outside that secure it into the Remove any internal sleeve. It's easiest to remove the bottom bracket with the bike lying on its I have found that the impact route works better and has less risk of stripping the Shell. The dirt here is often the source of creaks. This particular brand is not available on Amazon strangely enough but is, An alternative which does the same job is a cartridge bottom bracket tool. Your email address will not be published. As with most bike repairs, a number of specialist tools are needed. Ive just had a mobile mechanic destroy mine trying for 4 hours to get it off. No movement. With the bike clamped in a workstand, shove the base of the crank-arms On captive-bolted cranks, you can remove the cranks by removing the fixing bolt which has an 8mm Allen bolt with a washer. . Fortunately, a new bottom bracket isnt too expensive. I second using a vice. If not then a bit will drop away from the BB shell as it exits and damage the threads at the very edge. Incorrectly fastening while misaligned can result in stripping the crank threads and ultimately ruining the crank. You or your bike shop guy need to take extreme care for this stage. If you don't, get a piece of pipe and slip it over the end of your wrench and turn it SLOWLY. Here is a detailed guide to removing and installing a square taper bottom bracket in the form of a cartridge, which is typical these days. Spanner, forget it. bearing cup was removed, reinstall it, turning counterclockwise. There are several types of square taper cartridge bottom bracket are available on the market today. On the plus side, this tool does recess the full length of the BBs engagement splines whereas the tool with the pin does not. For an integrated crank setup, light re-facing could be helpful also.The point: for the average cyclist, it may well be best to leave this to the local bike shop who will have the tools and the experience in using them. Just To come to complete terms with the modern square taper cartridge bottom bracket, you firstly need an understanding of the ISIS or International Splined Interface Standard. There should be equal space around the bottom bracket. If you cut, you will be cutting incorrectly. Thank you. Once the old bottom bracket is out, cleaning the bottom bracket shell is essential. The park tool just gnawed at the plastic. The left side can be tightened clockwise. You may need to apply solvent. Now install the lockring in the non-drive side. Start by unscrewing the tool all the way until the end is fully retracted. After youve removed the Allen bolt, youll need to use the crank extractor. opposite side is the cartridge containing all the guts of the bottom Rotate into the cut for one or one-and-a-half turns. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. To avoid possible damage to the wrench, make sure that the torque setting far exceeds the degree of force required to loosen the bottom bracket enough so the removal can be completed easily. Grease the taper and then re-install the cranks using an Allen key. Turn counter clockwise to remove. Use a tool without a wrench to do this. If you have access to an impact tool, use it, if you don't, go the vise way. Bigger shops will likely have a pneumatic tool and driver to do the job. Each side of the spindle has a mechanism to from the spindle. All of which equals a happy cyclist. If you really cant get it off, then youll need the help of your local bike shop. This can be tricky as theres a pretty wide variety. That, You wont be able to break the drive-side free whilst the lockring is still firmly anchored in the non-drive side BB shell, If the square taper bottom bracket in question has a, But the drive side of a bottom bracket is generally. tool to the teeth on the lockring side of the bracket (usually left). In others, the unit is sealed, so the bottom bracket must be replaced Brake lever bolts, crank arms, stem all were extremely difficult to remove, often requiring a lot of WD40 and a hammer. Simply install this press fit cartridge square taper design into your ruined bottom bracket shell. One steel and one nylon cup with an alloy sleeve. Obviously, its cheaper to buy an entire toolkit that will include everything youll need rather than buying bits individually. plus chainrings. Simply remove the old bottom bracket and replace it with the new. Continue to turn the bits into the bottom bracket shell until each is fully inserted. Unscrew the bottom bracket. side-to-side to detect motion in the bottom bracket. These have slightly different maintenance instructions, but none the less youll find our advice here useful. crank type (a crank with a square hole must be mounted on a BB with the square It will slip out quickly, so be aware and take care. A torque wrench with the torque setting cranked up high to, say,70 Nm or so, will provide all the leverage required if you dont have a breaker bar or something similar. Then, carefully line up the crank extractor with the threads. . It really helps if you can provide pictures and/or video. to loosen it. More heaves and then the plastic BB ring broke! If you are looking to replace a cottered crank setup with a square taper setup, then look no further than a cartridge bottom bracket. The common three piece crankset has left and right arms with the bearing and spindle integrated. Square taper is the old standard, however there are newer, less common systems such as ISIS, Octalink and through-axle. wrench. And there will be less wear and tear . 6. Fitting the bottom bracket threads exactly to the BB shell threads is crucially important. This will give you a more reliable service in the long term. The teeth will be damaged making it harder to remove and re-install. It is the cartridges 20 x 2mm splines lining the bbs drive-side and lockring interface that require the specific tool with matching splines to engage the bottom bracket. You may need a crank extractor tool. Too easy to think you have got it right, begin turning . spindle from the left side. set of bearings, place a cloth under the bike to catch any loose bearings. Still, tapping (and facing . Tighten it by using your hands only. additional information. At the very least, removing the bottom bracket in the future will be infinitely easier. But if youve used a cottered crank setup theres the hassle of keeping the cotter pin nut tight. It has a soft plastic outer casing with 6 notches. threads on the lockring. Once you have broken it free all that remains is to continue to turn the bottom bracket cartridge and remove it from the bb shell. These instructions are fine for those with a cartridge BB, but not a lot of use for those of us who still use cup-and-cone BBs. If you have a torque wrench then you can use it to tighten it to the manufacturers specifications. Generally you should do this once per year. But, no problem. The BB is still perfectly operational but i doubt it can be removed conventionally. This can potentially be from the bottle cage bolts if they are missing or it is possible as the cups were not properly tightened. This wrench also has the half-inch drive that connects to the BB toolthe guesswork is taken out of tightening your bottom bracket to tolerance. EDIT1 : This chart is useful .. Great to print out and hang on the wall Threading. cranks. In the event that you do need to replace your BB, following the steps outlined here will ensure you get it right. Just unscrew them both.). I was unsure of what direction to turn, so i put my 'icetoolz' BB remover in the slots and with my hand, turned to feel if it would loosen up and give my an indication of what direction to turn it. If you are game to have a go yourself, or wish to make sure your local bike mechanic knows what hes doing, the procedure goes as follows. Another option is anti-seize such as Park Tool ASC-1. A lot is in the feel of the tool: some extractions require more force than others and you develop the feel for what is appropriate Practice makes perfect but if you get it wrong (and you may not know what that is if youve never done it before) practising it would negate the DIY reason in the first place. but thats for another day) the threads to perfection is the professional thing to do. Both sides tighten clockwise and loosen counterclockwise. If you are game to have a go yourself, or wish to make sure your local bike mechanic knows what hes doing, In this first stage just turn the bits into the bottom bracket shell just enough that they are, If not then a bit will drop away from the BB shell as it exits and, But it probably wont be correct, and the force you will have to apply will likely ruin the threads, At the very least, removing the bottom bracket in the future will be infinitely easier. Only bottom brackets corroded into the BB shellresist this assault. Excellent set of instructions. . EDIT3: Freewheel removed after much effort. . Seeing as both bikes are caked in dirt, i actually wouldn't be suprised if grit getting into the threads and seatpost tube is partially the reason why everything is so difficult to remove. I got the WD40 on and hammer out and proceeded to give it a few swings in a clockwise direction. Pack both bearing cups with bearing grease. You can also unknowingly damage the threads right at the bb shells edge as you are removing the bb unit. Bicycle maintenance bicycle maintenance, bicycle repair. The combined leverage of the longer handle and the high torque setting will be enough to break all but the most stubborn bottom brackets free of their shell. Now apply a cone wrench to the bottom bracket and unscrew it For example, a 68x116 bottom bracket is 68 mm wide as it 3. Then go the crescent wrench/big cheater bar route. While keeping the bearing cup Give the bottom bracket shell a liberal coating. The first thing to do is loosen then remove the non-drive side lock ring. a bit closer together, you might buy a 68x112.5 BB. Use a crank puller to remove the cranks. With the bottom bracket cartridge sitting flush against the BB face and the lockring installed, the torque now needs to be adjusted to tolerance. Plus youre not going to use it very often at all, so best to get a bike shop to do this. Ill shortly give you a detailed set of illustrated instructions on how to this with a minimum of trouble. Now put in the adjustable bearing cup (on the left) If it grinds, wobbles, or catches, it must be replaced as a unit.